Home Inspection Checklist: What to Expect (and Demand)

The home inspection is the single most important step between offer and closing — and the one where most buyers under-prepare. A good inspector finds problems that save you tens of thousands; a mediocre inspector misses them and you discover the disasters six months after move-in. This guide walks through what's covered, room-by-room items you can verify yourself before the formal inspection, the red flags that justify walking away, the questions to ask, and how to negotiate the repair list that follows.

What inspectors check

A standard ASHI/InterNACHI residential inspection covers the major systems and visible structure. It's visual — inspectors don't open walls, pull permits, or do destructive testing. Typical coverage:

Exterior

• Roof condition, age, flashing, gutters, downspouts (from ground or with ladder)
• Siding, trim, paint, caulk
• Windows and doors (operation, seals, glazing)
• Foundation visible from outside (cracks, settling, moisture stains)
• Grading and drainage around foundation
• Driveway, walkways, patios (condition, settling)
• Decks, porches, railings (structure and rot)
• Fences, retaining walls (visible from property)

Interior

• Walls, ceilings, floors (cracks, water stains, sloping)
• Doors and windows (operation, locks, weather seals)
• Stairs and handrails (code compliance, stability)
• Fireplace and chimney (visible portions, damper operation)

Systems

• Plumbing — visible pipes, water pressure, drain function, water heater age and condition
• Electrical — panel, breaker labeling, grounded outlets, GFCIs in wet areas, visible wiring
• HVAC — operational check, filter, ductwork visible portions, age and approximate condition
• Appliances — operational check of stovetop, oven, dishwasher, garbage disposal, microwave
• Insulation — visible attic and crawlspace insulation type and depth
• Ventilation — attic and crawlspace, bath fan exhaust

What's NOT covered in a standard inspection: sewer lines beyond visible cleanouts, hidden mold inside walls, pest infestations beyond visible damage, asbestos and lead testing, radon, well water quality, septic tank condition, pool equipment, retaining walls of structural concern, and any cosmetic issues. Each of these requires a separate specialty inspection (see cost table below).

Room-by-room checklist

Walk the property yourself before the formal inspection. You'll catch obvious issues, give the inspector specific things to look at, and have grounds to negotiate or walk away before paying for the inspection.

Kitchen

• Check for water damage under sink (cabinets, plumbing trap, supply lines).
• Run dishwasher one full cycle — verify drainage, no leaks.
• Test all stovetop burners; verify oven heats and holds temperature (use oven thermometer if possible).
• Open and close every cabinet drawer — sticky drawers indicate water damage or settling.
• Check countertop seams; verify backsplash caulk integrity.
• Test garbage disposal; check for leaks under sink during operation.
• Verify GFCI outlets work (test/reset buttons).
• Open refrigerator if it's included; check freezer condition and door seals.

Bathrooms

• Flush every toilet; verify proper drain and no rocking at the base.
• Run sink and shower water; check pressure and drainage.
• Inspect tile grout for cracks, missing pieces, or water staining.
• Check under-sink cabinets for water damage.
• Verify GFCI outlets.
• Run bath/shower exhaust fan — verify air flow.
• Look for moisture damage on ceilings below upstairs bathrooms.
• Check caulk around tub, shower, and toilet base.

Bedrooms / living areas

• Test every window — open, close, lock; check for broken seals (foggy double pane).
• Check ceilings and walls for cracks, especially in corners and around doors.
• Verify smoke and CO detectors present in each bedroom and on each floor.
• Test outlets and switches with a $10 outlet tester.
• Look at floor levelness — drop a marble; significant rolling = settling concern.
• Check closet doors — broken tracks and missing hardware are quick to spot.

Attic

• Look for daylight through roof — major leak indicator.
• Check insulation depth; flag if less than 8-10 inches.
• Look for moisture or mold staining on roof sheathing.
• Verify bath fan and dryer vents exit the roof (not into the attic).
• Check for animal evidence (droppings, nests, chewed wiring).
• Look at framing for sister-joists, splints, or visible repairs.

Basement / crawl space

• Smell — musty = moisture problem; chemical/sweet = mold concerns.
• Look for water staining or efflorescence (white mineral deposits) on walls.
• Check sump pump for rust, run-cycle test if accessible.
• Inspect foundation walls for cracks; vertical hairline = OK; horizontal or step-pattern = serious.
• Look at exposed joists for water staining, rot, or insect damage.
• Note any HVAC ductwork condition, sealing, insulation.
• Check main water shutoff and main electrical panel accessibility.

Garage

• Test garage door — should travel smoothly, reverse on obstruction.
• Check for oil staining on floor (long-term car leaks).
• Look at framing for water damage or settling.
• Verify firewall (drywall ceiling between garage and habitable space) is intact.
• Check exterior door from garage to house for proper fire seal.

Exterior

• Walk full perimeter looking for foundation cracks, water staining, displaced bricks.
• Check siding for buckling, missing pieces, paint failure.
• Look at roof from ground (binoculars help) — missing shingles, sagging ridge.
• Check gutter alignment, fastening, downspout discharge.
• Verify all hose bibs and outdoor outlets function.
• Inspect window/door frames for caulk failure and rotting wood.

Yard / drainage

• Confirm ground slopes AWAY from foundation (6" drop over 10 feet minimum).
• Verify downspouts discharge at least 5 feet from foundation.
• Look for standing water, low spots, or erosion patterns after rain.
• Check trees within 30 feet of structure — leaning, dead branches, root encroachment.
• Note any retaining walls — leaning or bulging is expensive to fix.
• Inspect deck/patio joinery to house for proper flashing.

Red flags that kill deals

Some inspection findings are negotiable; others justify walking away. The deal-killers:

• Foundation cracks > 1/4 inch wide, especially horizontal or step-pattern. Foundation repair costs $5k-50k+ depending on extent. Active settling means more failures ahead.
• Active water intrusion in basement or crawl space. Often costs $10k-30k to remediate properly (grading + drainage + waterproofing). Untreated leads to mold and structural rot.
• Knob-and-tube wiring (pre-1950 homes). Insurance carriers often refuse to write coverage. Full rewire: $8k-15k.
• Federal Pacific or Zinsco electrical panels. Known fire-risk panels that should be replaced ($2k-4k). Some insurers refuse coverage.
• Roof at end of life with significant damage. Full re-roof $12k-20k. Negotiate seller credit or walk if seller refuses.
• Extensive mold (more than 10 sqft). Remediation $2k-10k+ depending on extent and material. Source must be fixed first.
• Sewer line failures. Get a sewer scope (camera inspection) on any home 30+ years old or with mature trees near the line. Replacement $5k-25k.
• HVAC system at end of life with no recent service records. Replacement $6k-15k. Negotiate or walk if seller won't budge.
• Asbestos, lead paint, or vermiculite insulation in disturbed condition. Remediation costs vary wildly; can derail planned renovations entirely.
• Pest damage (termites, carpenter ants, powder post beetles). Active infestation requires treatment + structural repair. Get a separate pest inspection.

Specialty inspections you might need

The general home inspection has explicit exclusions — categories specifically not covered. For each excluded category, a separate certified inspector handles the work. Bundle them up-front during your due-diligence window:

Sewer scope (camera)

A camera fed through your sewer cleanout (or rooftop vent stack) records the full length of your lateral sewer line to the city main. Finds: root intrusion, separated joints, bellies (sagging sections), collapsed segments, clay-pipe deterioration. Cost: $150-300. Always order for homes 30+ years old, especially with mature trees on the lot. Replacement of a failed sewer lateral runs $5,000-25,000 depending on length and obstacles.

Radon

Radon is a naturally-occurring radioactive gas — the second-leading cause of lung cancer after smoking. Concentrations above 4 pCi/L warrant mitigation. Short-term test (48 hours): $100-200. Long-term test (90 days): $30 DIY kit. Mitigation system (passive sub-slab depressurization + active fan): $1,000-2,500 installed. Critical in zones with known high radon: CO, PA, OH, IA, ND, NJ, parts of WI and MI.

Mold air-sample testing

Required if there's any visible mold or musty smell. Air samples taken indoors and outdoors are compared; if indoor counts exceed outdoor by 3-5×, active growth is likely. Cost: $300-600. Remediation costs vary wildly — small surface mold $500-1,500; whole-room remediation $2,000-10,000; structural mold rebuild $10,000-50,000+.

Lead paint

Required diligence on pre-1978 homes if young children will live there. XRF analyzer surveys all paint surfaces ($200-400). EPA RRP-certified contractors must handle disturbance of lead paint during renovation. Significant liability if not addressed.

Asbestos

Pre-1980 homes may have asbestos in: popcorn ceilings, vinyl floor tiles (especially 9×9″), pipe insulation, HVAC duct wrap, siding (transite cement). Sample testing: $50-100 per sample at certified lab. Don't disturb suspected materials before testing — sealed asbestos is generally safe; airborne asbestos is the hazard.

Septic / well water

About 20% of U.S. homes are on private septic systems and 13% on private wells. Septic inspection + pump test: $300-700. Well water testing (bacteria, nitrates, lead, arsenic, hardness): $200-500. Both are essential due diligence for any home on private systems.

Pest / termite (WDO inspection)

Wood-destroying organism inspection looks for termites, carpenter ants, powder-post beetles, and dry rot. $75-200. Required by VA and many conventional lenders in southern states. Active infestation must be treated before close; sellers typically pay.

Underground oil tank

Pre-1985 homes in oil-heat regions (Northeast, parts of Mid-Atlantic and Midwest) may have abandoned or active underground oil tanks. Soil testing if any leakage suspected; tank removal $1,500-5,000; remediation of contaminated soil $5,000-50,000+. Critical for NJ, NY, MA, CT, PA.

Pool inspection

Pumps, filters, heaters, electrical, deck condition, safety fencing, and pool surface condition. $200-400. Pool repairs and replumbing routinely run $2,000-15,000.

Regional inspection priorities

• Coastal (within 5 mi of ocean): Add salt-corrosion check on HVAC condenser (often refused service after age 7); window seal inspection (salt fog damages faster); seawall and erosion review.
• Hurricane zones (FL, LA, TX, GA, NC coast): Wind mitigation inspection (often required for insurance discount); roof tie-down verification; impact-rated windows or shutters; elevation certificate for flood insurance.
• Snow / ice belt (zone 5+): Ice-dam evidence on roof edges; attic insulation depth (R-49+ expected); soffit/ridge ventilation balance; freeze-resistant pipes in unheated spaces.
• Wildfire zones (CA, OR, WA, AZ, CO foothills): Defensible-space compliance; Class A roof; ember-resistant vents; deck and siding materials. Insurance carriers increasingly require these specifically.
• Seismic zones (CA, AK, parts of WA, OR, NV, UT): Foundation bolting (older homes often unbolted); cripple-wall bracing; gas-line shutoff valve; chimney inspection (most common earthquake damage).
• Tornado / hail belt (TX, OK, KS, NE, MO, CO): Impact-resistant roof certification; storm shelter or interior safe room inspection; siding hail damage.

New construction inspections

Many buyers assume new construction doesn't need inspection. Wrong — even reputable builders make mistakes, and trades work fast. Three inspection stages for new builds:

1. Pre-drywall (rough-in) — after framing, electrical, plumbing, HVAC, but before drywall covers everything up. Find: improper framing, missing fire blocks, electrical errors, leaking plumbing, missing insulation in stud bays. $400-700. The single most valuable new-construction inspection.
2. Pre-closing (final walk-through assist) — same checklist as a resale inspection, focused on builder punch-list items, cosmetic defects, appliance operation, and code compliance. $400-700.
3. 11-month warranty inspection — most builders provide a 1-year fit-and-finish warranty. Hire an inspector at month 11 to find every defect that surfaced post-move-in: settling cracks, paint flaws, sticking doors, HVAC commissioning issues, deck/patio settling. $300-500. Submit the list to your builder before warranty expires.

Questions to ask your inspector

1. "What's the single biggest issue you found?" — gets past the checklist into their judgment.
2. "What would you fix first, and what can wait?" — helps prioritize the repair list.
3. "What's the age and remaining life of the roof, HVAC, water heater, and electrical panel?" — sets your replacement-reserve timeline.
4. "Is there anything that needs a specialist inspection?" — surfaces categories the general inspection couldn't fully evaluate.
5. "What did you NOT inspect?" — confirms the coverage gaps.
6. "Are any findings safety hazards vs nice-to-fix?" — frames the negotiation.
7. "What surprised you about this home?" — invites the off-script observation that often matters most.
8. "Is there evidence of past water damage that's been covered up?" — fresh paint in basements or odd patches often hide repairs.
9. "What questions would you ask the seller?" — helps your agent draft follow-ups.
10. "How does this home compare to others of its age in this area?" — context for whether issues are normal or unusual.
11. "What maintenance schedule would you recommend for the first 5 years?" — gives you a forward roadmap.
12. "Can I call you in 6 months if I have follow-up questions?" — most good inspectors say yes.

After the inspection: negotiating repairs

You typically have 5-10 days after the inspection (per your contract) to request repairs, credits, or to terminate. The strategy depends on whether you're in a buyer's or seller's market and on the specific findings.

Categorize findings

• Must-fix (safety, code, financing). Roof leaks, electrical hazards, structural issues, anything insurance or appraisal will require. Push hard for repair or credit.
• Should-fix (significant cost). Aging HVAC, deferred maintenance, plumbing nearing failure. Negotiate seller credit at closing.
• Nice-to-fix (cosmetic, small). Don't waste negotiation capital here — you'll address it post-close.

Repair vs credit

Almost always ask for a credit instead of seller-performed repairs. Sellers cut corners on departing repairs (cheap contractors, no warranty, fast schedules). A $5,000 credit at closing lets you hire your preferred contractor on your schedule with full quality control.

Walk-away triggers

If the seller refuses to negotiate on must-fix items, or if the cumulative repair list exceeds 10-15% of the purchase price, seriously consider walking. Lost earnest money ($1k-10k) is far cheaper than buying a money pit.

"Sellers cut corners on departing repairs — cheap contractors, no warranty, fast schedules. Always negotiate a credit at closing instead and hire your own people on your own timeline. The math is almost always in your favor."

How much inspections cost

Pricing varies by region, home size, and add-ons:

Total spend across general + relevant specialty inspections typically lands between $500 and $1,500 — about 0.2-0.4% of home price. The ROI on this spend is the highest of any due-diligence dollar in real estate. Skip-cheap and you might miss the $25,000 problem; spend $1,000 and find it during the contingency period when you still have leverage.

For mortgage products available after inspection completes, see Types of Mortgages. For closing-day cost planning, see Closing Costs Calculator. For estimating the home's value vs. inspection-revealed issues, see Home Value Estimator.